Ukuchazwa Kwezithako Zokuvuselela: Indlela Okusebenza Ngayo Nokuthi Kungani Udinga Eyodwa Nsuku Zonke

Umgqa ophakeme wesikhumba sakho, i-stratum corneum, uvame ukuqhathaniswa nodonga lwezindonga. Ama-corneocytes (amaseli esikhumba afile) ayizindonga, kanti ama-lipids aphakathi (ama-ceramides, i-cholesterol, kanye nama-fatty acids) ayigwebu elibopha konke ndawonye. Lo mkhawulo unikeza imisebenzi emibili ebalulekile: uvikela izinsongo zemvelo ezifana namagciwane, izinto eziphazamisayo, kanye nezinto ezibangela izifo, futhi ugcine amanzi ngaphakathi.

Lapho lo mkhawulo uphazamisekile, amanzi aphuma esikhumbeni ngesivinini esikhulu ngenqubo ebizwa ngokuthi i-transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Ukwanda kwe-TEWL kuholela ekomfuthweni, ekuphukeni, ekubambeni, nase sensitivity. Isikhumba siba sengozini enkulu yokuphazamiseka, izinto ezibangela izifo, kanye nezifo ngoba igwebu elivikelayo phakathi kwamasele linamathafa.

Izithako zokuvuselela zisebenza ngokuxazulula le nkinga ngezindlela ezintathu ezihambelana nezigaba ezintathu zezithako zokuvuselela: ama-humectants, ama-emollients, kanye nama-occlusives. Ukuqonda lezi zigaba ezintathu kuyisihluthulelo sokukhetha isithako sokuvuselela esisebenza ngempela kulolu hlobo lwesikhumba nolwazi. Isithako sokuvuselela esihle sihlala sinesithako esivela kuzo zonke lezi zigaba ezintathu, sisebenza ndawonye ukuheha amanzi, sithambise ubuso besikhumba, futhi sigcine konke kuphakathi.

I-ratio ethile yama-humectants, ama-emollients, kanye nama-occlusives emkhiqizweni inquma umumo wayo nokufaneleka kwayo kumalungiselelo ahlukene wesikhumba. Izithako zokuvuselela ze-gel zine-humectant eningi futhi zikhanya, zenze zifaneleka kakhulu kwesikhumba esinamanzi. Ama-lotion alinganisa zonke lezi zigaba ezintathu ngendlela elula.

Ama-creams aqukethe ama-emollients amaningi kanye nama-occlusives wesikhumba esomile. Ama-ointments nama-balms anama-occlusives amaningi futhi afaneleka kakhulu kwesikhumba esomile kakhulu noma esonakele. Kungakhathaliseki uhlobo lwesikhumba sakho, ukusebenzisa isithako sokuvuselela nsuku zonke kubalulekile ukuze kugcinwe umkhawulo wesikhumba ophilayo, osebenzayo.

Ama-humectants yizithako ezihlanganisa amanzi ezikhipha amanzi emvelweni nasemazingeni aphakeme esikhumbeni ziye phezulu kwi-epidermis. Ama-humectants ajwayelekile afaka i-hyaluronic acid, i-glycerin, i-propylene glycol, i-urea, kanye ne-aloe vera. I-glycerin ingenye yezinto ezisebenzayo kakhulu nezifundwe kahle, itholakala ezithakweni zokuvuselela eziningi emakethe.

I-hyaluronic acid idume ngokukwazi ukuhamba kuze kube izikhathi eziyizi-1,000 zesisindo sayo emanzini, nakuba empeleni umphumela wayo wokuhlanza uncike kumazinga omolekyuli asetshenzisiwe kanye nezinga lokushisa. Ezindaweni ezomile kakhulu ezine-humidity engaphansi kuka-30%, ama-humectants abekwe ngaphandle kwe-layer ye-occlusive phezulu angakhipha amanzi ezindaweni ezijulile zesikhumba kunokukhishwa emoyeni, okungenzeka kube kubi kakhulu ekushodweni kwamanzi.!! Lokhu kungukuthi ama-humectants kuphela akavamile ukuba anele futhi adinga ukuvalwa ngama-emollients noma ama-occlusives.

Ama-emollients agcwalisa izikhala phakathi kwamasele esikhumba, athambise futhi athambise ubuso besikhumba. Afaka izithako ezifana ne-squalane, i-jojoba oil, i-capric triglycerides, i-dimethicone (i-silicone elula), kanye nama-fatty alcohols afana ne-cetyl kanye ne-cetearyl alcohol. Naphezu kwegama elithi i-alcohol, ama-fatty alcohols awomisi; ayizinto ezithambisayo, ezihlanza ngokuphelele ezihlukile kumasiko omisa njenge-denatured alcohol.

Ama-emollients anika izithako zokuvuselela umumo wazo opholile, okwenza isikhumba sibe sithambile ngokushesha ngemva kokufaka. Ama-occlusives akha ifilimu yomzimba ebusweni besikhumba evimbela amanzi ekuphunyukeni. Afaka i-petroleum jelly (eyona efaneleka kakhulu, yehlisa i-TEWL ngaphezu kuka-99 percent), i-mineral oil, i-beeswax, i-shea butter, i-lanolin, kanye nama-silicones afana ne-dimethicone. Nakuba abanye abantu bekhathazekile ukuthi ama-occlusives azovala ama-pores, amaningi awanayo i-comedogenic uma esetshenziswa ngezinga elifanele, futhi izinzuzo zawo zokuvikela umkhawulo ziwusizo ngisho nasezithakweni ezingenamafutha.

Ukukhetha i-moisturizer akusikho ukukhetha okukodwa okufanele wonke umuntu. Umkhiqizo ofanele uncike kuhlobo lwesikhumba sakho, isimo sezulu okukhona kuso, isikhathi sonyaka, kanye neminye imikhiqizo oyisebenzisayo emkhakheni wakho. Ngalesi sikhumba esinamanzi, bheka ama-gel noma ama-gel-cream moisturizers alula, angenawo amafutha.

Amafomula aqukethe i-hyaluronic acid kanye ne-niacinamide njengezithako ezisemqoka anikeza ukujabulisa ngaphandle kokwengeza ukukhanya noma isisindo. Gwema imikhiqizo enama-occlusives anzima afana ne-shea butter noma i-coconut oil, angase azwe njenge-greasy futhi akhuthaze ukuvinjwa kwesikhumba esinamanzi. I-moisturizer enhle yesikhumba esinamanzi kufanele ingene ngokushesha futhi ishiyeke nepholile noma i-semi-matte finish.

Ngalesi sikhumba esomile, khetha i-moisturizer ye-cream enothile enenani eliphezulu le-emollients kanye nama-occlusives. Ama-moisturizers aqukethe ama-lipid amathathu abalulekile — ama-ceramides, i-cholesterol, kanye nama-fatty acids — ngesilinganiso esifana nesakhiwo semvelo sesikhumba sikhombisa ukuthi sithuthukisa i-barrier ngempumelelo kakhulu kunezimpahla ezine kuphela eyodwa yalezi lipid.!! Bheka izithako ezifana ne-shea butter, i-squalane, kanye ne-dimethicone kanye nama-ceramides ukuze uthole ukujabulisa okuphelele nokuvikela.

Ngalesi sikhumba esihlanganisiwe, ifomula ye-lotion noma ye-cream elula iyasebenza kahle ebusweni bonke. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, ungafaka i-gel elula endaweni ye-T-zone yakho kanye ne-cream enothile ezindaweni zakho zamehlo uma umehluko phakathi kwezindawo ubonakala. Ngalesi sikhumba esithambile, uhlu lwezithako lubalulekile kakhulu kunokwakheka.

Gwema i-fragrance, ama-essential oils, kanye nezithako eziphuzi. Bheka uhlu lwezithako oluncane olunama-compounds atholakalayo afana ne-centella asiatica, i-colloidal oatmeal, noma i-allantoin. Amafomula anama-ceramide anenzuzo enkulu kakhulu ku sensitive skin ngoba aqinisa i-barrier ngokumelene nezinto eziphazamisayo.

Ngalesi sikhumba esigugile, khetha ama-moisturizers aqukethe ama-peptides, ama-antioxidants, kanye ne-niacinamide kanye ne-base ejwayelekile yokujabulisa. Lezi zinto ezingeziwe zinikeza izinzuzo zokulwa nokuguga esigabeni sokujabulisa, zandisa ukusebenza kahle komkhuba wakho.

Ama-moisturizer textures akhona kumkhakha kusuka kokulula kuya kokunzima, futhi ifomethi ngayinye inenjongo ethile. Ama-gels ayinamanzi anokuncane noma awanawo amafutha. Azizwa epholile futhi ajabulisa, angena cishe ngokushesha, futhi awashiyi umquba obonakalayo.

Ama-gel moisturizers afaneleka kahle kwesikhumba esinamanzi kanye nesikhumba esithambile, izimo zezulu ezimanzi, kanye nokusetshenziswa ngaphansi kwemakha. Nokho, anikeza ukujabulisa okuncane okungapheli ngoba awanawo ama-properties occlusive aqinile. Kumuntu onesikhumba esomile, i-gel moisturizer izobonakala inganele phakathi kwamahora ambalwa.

Ama-lotions ayifomula ethambile, efaneleka kahle, ethuthukisa amanzi kanye nama-futha. Ahlanganyela ngokushesha futhi anikeza ukujabulisa okuphakathi. Ama-lotions asebenza kahle kwesikhumba esijwayelekile kuya kwesithambile futhi athandwa njengama-moisturizers omzimba ngoba asakazeka kalula ezindaweni ezinkulu.

Ama-creams anesilinganiso esiphezulu sama-oil kuya kwamanzi, anikeza ukwakheka okukhulu, okuthambile. Anikeza ukujabulisa okukhulu kakhulu kanye ne-occlusion kunezama-gels noma ama-lotions futhi yifomethi ethandwa kakhulu kuma-moisturizers ebuso. Ngaphakathi kwekhrimu, kukhona uhla olukhulu lwezinto ezihlukahlukene kusuka kumathoni alula apholile kuya kumafomula anzima, anesisindo.

Abantu abaningi abanesikhumba esijwayelekile, esihlanganisiwe, noma esomile bazothola i-moisturizer yabo efanele kulolu hla. Ama-ointments kanye nama-balms anama-oil kanye ne-wax aphezulu kakhulu anamanzi amancane. I-petroleum jelly iyisibonelo esijwayelekile.

Lezi zimpahla zinikeza i-occlusion ephezulu kakhulu futhi zifaneleka kakhulu kwesikhumba esomile kakhulu, esiphukile, noma esithambile. Zingase zizwe zinzima futhi zibe greasy, ngakho abantu abaningi bazigcina ukuze zisetshenziswe ngesikhathi sokulala noma ukuze zisetshenziswe ezindaweni ezithile ezomile kakhulu ezifana nezinsini, amadolo, kanye nemilomo. Ezimweni zokwelapha, ama-moisturizers asekelwe ku-ointment avame ukunconywa ezikhathini zokukhathazeka kwe-atopic dermatitis ngoba ama-properties awo aphezulu we-occlusive asiza i-barrier elimele ukuba igcine umswakama ngesikhathi sokuphulukiswa. Ukukhetha ukwakheka okufanele kuhlobene nokuhambisana kokusebenza kwe-moisturizer nezidingo zangempela zesikhumba sakho kunokubeka phambili lokho kubukeka kahle kakhulu eshalofini.

Isikhathi nendlela yokufaka i-moisturizer kungaba nomthelela omkhulu ekusebenzeni kwayo. Isikhathi esifanele sokufaka i-moisturizer sitholakala phakathi kwemizuzu emibili kuya kwemithathu ngemuva kokuhlanza ubuso bakho, ngenkathi isikhumba sisathambile kancane. Ukufaka esikhumbeni esithambile kunezinjongo ezimbili: amanzi asala phezulu anika izithako ezithambisayo okuthile okufanele zixhume, kuthuthukisa umphumela wazo wokujabulisa, futhi umswakama ovinjwe ngaphansi kwe-layer ye-moisturizer unciphisa i-TEWL ngempumelelo kakhulu kunokufaka esikhumbeni esomile ngokuphelele.

Sebenzisa inani elilinganiselwa ku-nickel kuya ku-quarter elikhulu ubuso bakho bese ucindezela noma uphonsa umkhiqizo esikhumbeni sakho kunokugxuma kakhulu. Ukucindezela kusabalalisa umkhiqizo ngokulinganayo futhi kunciphisa ukungqubuzana okungase kuphazamise isikhumba esithambile noma esivuvukalayo. Ungakhohlwa intamo yakho kanye nengxenye ephezulu ye-chest yakho, okuyizandleni zesikhumba sobuso bakho futhi zikhula ngendlela efanayo kodwa zivame ukungabhekwa.

Ekuseni, faka i-moisturizer yakho ngemuva kwe-serums futhi ngaphambi kwe-sunscreen. Ngobusuku, faka ngemuva kwemikhiqizo yakho yokwelapha futhi ngaphambi kwanoma iyiphi i-oil occlusive noma i-sleeping mask. Uma usebenzisa i-retinoid edala ukusola, ukufaka i-layer elincane ye-moisturizer ngaphambi kwe-retinoid (ngokwesinye isikhathi okubizwa ngokuthi indlela ye-sandwich) kungasiza ukuvimbela ukuphazamiseka ngaphandle kokunciphisa ukusebenza kwe-retinoid.

Kufanele ube ne-moisturizer kabili ngosuku, ekuseni nasebusuku, kungakhathaliseki uhlobo lwesikhumba sakho. Ngisho nesikhumba esinamanzi sithola inzuzo ekusetshenzisweni okuqhubekayo kwe-moisturizer ngoba kugcina ubumsulwa be-barrier futhi kungasiza ngempela ukuhlela ukukhiqizwa kwamafutha ngokuhamba kwesikhathi. Uma isikhumba sakho sizwa sikhulu phakathi kokufaka, i-hydrating mist elandelwa ukufaka i-moisturizer elula ingasiza, ikakhulukazi ezindaweni ezine-air-conditioning noma ezishisayo ezithatha umswakama wesikhumba phakathi nosuku. Izinguquko zesizini nazo zibalulekile: abantu abaningi badinga i-moisturizer enothile ebusika lapho umswakama wehla futhi ifomula elula ehlobo lapho ukushisa nomswakama kukhula.