Izithako Eziphumelelayo Zokukhanya Kwezikhumba (Umhlahlandlela Osekela Isayensi)

Imboni yokunakekela isikhumba igcwele imikhiqizo engama-1000, kodwa izithako ezithile ezibangela umehluko obonakalayo esikhumbeni sakho zifundwe kakhulu ocwaningweni lwezokwelapha olwenziwe ngabanye. Ukuqonda ukuthi lezi zinto ezibalulekile zisebenza kanjani ezingeni le-cellular kusiza ukukhetha imikhiqizo ngokuhlakanipha kunokulandela izimangalo zokumaketha. Izithako ezisebenzayo zingama-component emkhiqizweni wokunakekela isikhumba ezihlinzeka ngempempe ethile emzimbeni.

Zihluke ezithakweni ezingasebenzi noma ezisisekelo (njengezamanzi, ama-emulsifiers, kanye nez preservative) ezihlinzeka umkhiqizo ngombala nokuqinisa kodwa ezingashintshi ngqo isikhumba. Izithako ezisebenzayo eziphakanyisiwe kakhulu zihlukaniswa ngezigaba eziningana: ama-antioxidants avimbela umonakalo we-free radical, ama-retinoids alawula ukuhamba kwe-cell kanye nokukhiqizwa kwe-collagen, ama-acids okukhuhla akhipha amaseli esikhumba afile futhi athuthukise umphumela, ama-humectants akhanga umswakama esikhumbeni, kanye nezithako zokulungisa izithiyo ezomeleza ungqimba lokuvikela lesikhumba. Uma ukhetha imikhiqizo, ukuhlanganiswa kwezithako ezisebenzayo kubaluleke kakhulu.

I-serum ye-vitamin C engu-15 percent isebenza kakhulu ngokwehlukile kuneyengu-2 percent. Ngokufanayo, ukuhlela okukhona ezithakweni ezisebenzayo kuthinta ukuzinza kwayo nokungena. Umkhiqizo owenziwe kahle ngokuhlanganiswa okujwayelekile uvame ukuhamba phambili kunomkhiqizo owenziwe kabi ngokuqhathaniswa kokuhlanganiswa okuphezulu.

I-pH yomkhiqizo nayo ithinta indlela ezithako ezithile ezisebenza ngayo. 5, kanti i-niacinamide isebenza kahle kakhulu ku-pH phakathi kuka-5 no-7. Lezi zinkcukacha zobuchwepheshe zichaza ukuthi kungani eminye imikhiqizo ihlinzeka ngemiphumela emangalisayo ngenkathi eminye equkethe isithako esifanayo ingaphumeleli.

Ama-retinoids angama-derivatives e-vitamin A futhi amelela isigaba esiphakanyisiwe kakhulu sokufundwa kwezithako kwezokwelapha. Asebenza ngokubopha kumareceptors athile ezicubu zesikhumba, enza kube nesivinini sokuhamba kwe-cell, ukukhuthaza ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen ne-elastin ku-dermis, kanye nokulawula ukukhiqizwa kwe-sebum. Umphumela uwukuthi umphumela ube mncane, izimpawu ezincane nezibazi, umbala wesikhumba ophumelelayo, kanye nezinkinga ezincane.

I-tretinoin (i-retinoic acid) yokubhaliswa iyifomu enamandla kakhulu futhi inezinkanyezi eziningi zokwelashwa ezisekela ukusebenza kwayo kokuvimbela ukujula nokwehlisa ama-acne. I-retinol ethengiswa ngaphandle kokubhaliswa iyisithako esinamandla esiphansi esikhumba sikhulisa i-retinoic acid. I-oyela iyathambile kodwa idinga ukusetshenziswa okuqhubekayo ezinyangeni eziningana ukuze ikhiqize imiphumela ebonakalayo.

Izinketho ezintsha zama-retinoid ezifana ne-adapalene (manje itholakala ngaphandle kokubhaliswa kwezinye izimakethe) kanye ne-retinal (i-retinaldehyde) zinikeza izinketho eziphakathi ezisebenza kangcono kune-retinol kodwa zikhululekile kakhulu kune-tretinoin. Ucwaningo lwezokwelapha luveze ukuthi ukusetshenziswa okuqhubekayo kwe-retinoid ezinyangeni eziyi-12 kungakhuphula ubukhulu be-epidermal ngaphezulu kuka-25 percent futhi kukhuphule kakhulu ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen ku-dermis.!! Ukuqala i-retinoid kudinga ukubekezela nendlela ethambile.

Qala ngokuqhuba okuphansi izikhathi ezimbili kuya kwezintathu ngeviki esikhumbeni esomile ngemuva kokuhlanza. Lindela isikhathi sokulungisa esingamahora amane kuya kweziyi-8 lapho ungase uzwe ukoma, ukwehla, kanye nokuphazamiseka okuncane, okwaziwa ngokuthi isikhathi sokwenziwa kwe-retinization. Lokhu kuyisibonakaliso esijwayelekile sokuthi isithako sisebenza.

Ngesikhathi salokhu, sebenzisa umswakama ocebile, gwema ezinye izikhuhla, futhi faka i-sunscreen ngokucophelela njengoba ama-retinoids enza kube lula ukuvuvukala. Uma isikhumba sakho sesilungile, ungakhuphula kancane ukufakwa kwansuku zonke. Ama-retinoids awanconywa ngesikhathi sokukhulelwa noma sokunisela.

I-Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) ingenye yezinto ezisebenzayo kakhulu ezitholakala ezindaweni zokwelapha. Iphula ama-radical mahhala akhiqizwa yi-UV radiation kanye nokungcola, ikhanyisa isikhumba ngokuvimbela ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin okweqile, futhi ixhasa ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen. 5.

I-Vitamin C iyaziwa ngokungazinzile futhi iyashintsha uma ibonakaliswa ekukhanyeni, emoyeni, nasezheat. Khetha imikhiqizo efakwe kahle, engangenwa umoya futhi uphume noma iyiphi i-serum eshintshile yaba mnyama noma i-oranje, njengoba lokhu kukhombisa ukuhamba komoya. I-Vitamin C kanye ne-sunscreen uma zisetshenziswa ndawonye zikh提供保护 enkulu kakhulu ngokumelene nokulimala kwesikhumba okubangelwa yi-UV kunoma iyiphi imikhiqizo esetshenziswa yodwa.!!

I-Niacinamide (i-vitamin B3) iyisithako esihlukahlukene kakhulu esibhekana nezinkinga eziningi zesikhumba ngasikhathi sinye. Ngokugxila kuka-2 kuya ku-5 percent, iqinisa ibhande lesikhumba ngokukhulisa ukukhiqizwa kwe-ceramide, yehlisa ububomvu nokuvuvukala, ilawula ukukhipha i-sebum, futhi iyanciphisa i-hyperpigmentation ngokuvimbela ukudluliswa kwe-melanin kumaseli esikhumba. Ngokwehlukile eziningi zezakhi, i-niacinamide iyamukelwa kahle cishe yizo zonke izinhlobo zesikhumba, kuhlanganise nesikhumba esibucayi, futhi ayibangeli i-photosensitivity.

Ihlangana kahle nezinye zonke izithako, okwenza kube lula ukuyifaka kunoma iyiphi imikhuba. Ezinye izithako ezibalulekile zokuvikela zifaka i-vitamin E (tocopherol), esebenza ngokubambisana ne-vitamin C ukuze ithuthukise ukuzinza kwayo nokusebenza kahle. I-Resveratrol, ethathwe ezithelo ze-grape, inezakhiwo zokuvimbela ukuvuvukala kanye nezokuguga.

I-Green tea extract (epigallocatechin gallate) iyisithako esinamandla sokuvimbela ukuvuvukala esithulisa isikhumba esiphendulayo. I-Ferulic acid iyazinzisa ama-vitamini C no-E futhi ikhulisa imiphumela yabo yokuvikela ekukhanyeni. I-serum ehlanganisa ama-vitamini C no-E ne-ferulic acid ingenye yezifundo ezisekelwe emiphumeleni ezitholakalayo yokuvikela futhi inikeza ukuvikela okuqinile nsuku zonke ngokumelene nokulimala kwemvelo.

Ama-exfoliants emichiza aphula izixhumanisi ezibamba amaseli esikhumba esifile phezulu, evula isikhumba esithambile, esikhanyayo ngaphansi. Ahlukaniswe ngezigaba ezintathu ezinkulu, ngayinye inezici ezihlukile. Ama-alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) afaka i-glycolic acid kanye ne-lactic acid.

I-Glycolic acid inobukhulu obuncane bemolekyuli, ivumela ukuba ihlale ibhujiswe kakhulu futhi ikhiqize imiphumela emikhulu, kodwa ingabangela nokukhathazeka okukhulu. I-Lactic acid inobukhulu obukhulu bemolekyuli, ihlale ibhujiswe kancane, futhi isebenza njengomthombo wokunisela, ikhipha umswakama esikhumbeni. Ama-AHAs ayahluza amanzi futhi asebenza phezulu kwesikhumba, okwenza kube kuhle ukubhekana nokungakhanyi, ukungalingani kokwakheka, imigqa emincane, kanye ne-hyperpigmentation.

I-Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), ikakhulukazi i-salicylic acid, iyasoluble emanzini, okusho ukuthi ingangena emithonjeni futhi ibhujiswe i-sebum kanye namaseli afile abanga ukuvinjelwa. I-Salicylic acid iyona kuphela i-exfoliant yemichiza esetshenziswa kakhulu esebenza ngaphakathi emithonjeni, okwenza ibe nempumelelo yokwelapha nokuvimbela ama-blackheads, ama-whiteheads, kanye ne-acne.!! Iphinde ibe nezakhiwo zokuvimbela ukuvuvukala ezisiza ukuthulisa ukuvuvukala okukhona.

Ama-Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) afana ne-gluconolactone kanye ne-lactobionic acid yizinto ezithambile zokukhipha. Ubukhulu bazo bemolekyuli obukhulu bukhombisa ukuthi zisebenza kuphela phezulu kwesikhumba ngaphandle kokungena ngokujulile ukuze zidalule ukukhathazeka. Ama-PHAs aphinde asebenze njengomthombo wokunisela kanye nezithako zokuvikela, okwenza kube kuhle kubantu abanesikhumba esibucayi, esithwele i-rosacea, noma esithwele i-eczema esingakwazi ukumelana nama-AHAs noma ama-BHAs.

Uma ufaka ama-acid okukhipha, qala ngokuqina okuphansi bese uwasebenzisa kathathu kuya kwezintathu ngesonto. Khulisa ubukhulu ngokuhamba kwesikhathi kuphela uma isikhumba sakho siyamukela kahle. Ukweqisa ama-exfoliation kuyinto evamile kakhulu amaphutha okukhathalela isikhumba, okuholela ekulimaleni kwe-barrier yesikhumba, ukwanda kokukhathazeka, futhi ngokuphambene, ukwakheka kwesikhumba okubi kakhulu kanye nezinkinga.

Izithako zokunisela kanye nezithako zokulungisa ibhande ziyisisekelo lapho zonke ezinye izithako ezisebenzayo zisebenza kahle. Ngaphandle kokunisela okwanele kanye ne-barrier yesikhumba engaphuliwe, noma yiziphi i-serum ezinhle zizophumelela kancane noma zidalule ukukhathazeka. I-Hyaluronic acid iyiglycosaminoglycan etholakala ngokwemvelo esikhumbeni esingagcina kuze kube yizikhathi eziyinkulungwane zesisindo sayo emanzini.

I-Hyaluronic acid ethulwe ezindaweni zokwelapha nasezithakweni ikhipha umswakama emvelweni nasezindaweni ezijulile zesikhumba iye phezulu kwe-epidermis, ikhulisa isikhumba futhi ithambise imigqa emincane. Bheka imikhiqizo equkethe ubukhulu obuhlukahlukene bemolekyuli ye-hyaluronic acid, njengoba ama-molecule amancane engangena ngokujulile kanti ama-molecule amakhulu anisela phezulu. Ama-Ceramides ayizithako ezibalulekile ezakha cishe u-50 percent we-barrier yesikhumba, futhi ukujabulisa kwabo phezulu kuboniswe ukuthi kulungisa ukulimala kwe-barrier futhi kwehlise ukulahleka kwamanzi ngaphakathi ezinsukwini.!!

Ziyinzuzo ikakhulukazi esikhumbeni esomile, esithwele i-eczema, noma esibucayi esithintekile yimikhiqizo ebucayi noma ingcindezi yemvelo. I-Squalane, ethathwe ezihlahleni ze-olive noma kumaswidi, ifana kakhulu ne-sebum yemvelo yesikhumba sakho futhi inikeza umswakama opholile, ongakhiphi ama-comedones. Ama-Peptides ayizixhumanisi ezimfishane zama-amino acids ezisebenza njengemiyalezo yemichiza esikhumbeni.

Ama-peptides ahlukene anemisebenzi ehlukene: ama-signal peptides afana ne-palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 akhuthaza ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen kanye ne-elastin, ama-neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides afana ne-argireline anganciphisa ukubonakala kwemigqa yokukhombisa, futhi ama-copper peptides akhuthaza ukuvuselelwa kwezilonda futhi anezakhiwo zokuvikela. Nakuba ubufakazi bezokwelapha bama-peptides bungakabi namandla njengama-retinoids noma i-vitamin C, ucwaningo oluphakanyisiwe lukhanga. Ama-peptides ngokuvamile ayamukelwa kahle futhi angaba yinketho enhle kulabo abangakwazi ukusebenzisa ama-retinoids. I-Centella asiatica, eyaziwa nangokuthi i-cica, iqukethe izixhumanisi ezisebenzayo ezibizwa nge-madecassoside kanye ne-asiaticoside ezithulisa ukuvuvukala, zixhase ukuvuselelwa kwezilonda, futhi ziqinise ibhande lesikhumba, okwenza kube kuhle ikakhulukazi esikhumbeni esikhathazekile noma esithintekile ngemuva kokuhlinzwa.