Ukuthintela Ukuguga Kwangaphambili: Iindlela Ezisekelwe kwiSayensi

Ukuguga akupheli, kodwa umjikelo ophakathi kokuba isikhumba sakho siguge ungaphezulu kokulawula kwakho kunokuba abantu abaninzi bazi. Uphononongo kwi-dermatology kunye ne-gerontology luveze ngokucacileyo ukuba uninzi lokuguga kwesikhumba olubonakalayo lukhokelelwa ziimeko zangaphandle ezinokuthintelwa kunokuba kukhokelelwe kukuhamba kwesikhathi okungaphunyukayo. Ukuqonda umahluko phakathi kokuguga kwemvelo kunye nokuguga kweemeko, kunye nolwazi malunga neendlela ezineengxelo zonyango ezichanekileyo, kukuvumela ukuba wenze ukhetho olukhusela ub youthful obusikhumba sakho ngempumelelo ngakumbi kunokuba nayiphi na ingxelo yokuthengisa ingathembisa.

Ukuguga kwemvelo, okubizwa ngokuba kukuguga kwekhronological, yinkqubo yemvelo, eyenzelwe ngokwejometri eyenzeka kwisikhumba sonke ngaphandle kokukhathazeka ngokuqhuba. Kukhokelwa ziimeko zangaphakathi — ukuguga kwemithambo, ukuncipha kwamazinga e-hormone, ukuncipha kokuphuma kwemithambo, kunye nokuncipha kancinci kwe-telomeres okuhambelana nokwahlula kwemithambo. Ukuguga kwemvelo kukhokelela kumgca omninzi, ukuncipha kwesikhumba, kunye nokuncipha kancinci kokuthamba, kodwa kuhamba kancinci kwaye kumgangatho ofanayo.

Ukuguga kweemeko, ngokuchasene, kubangelwa ziimeko zemvelo kunye neendlela zokuphila ezikhawulezayo umjikelo wokuguga ngaphezu kokuba i-genetics ikhokela. Iimeko eziphambili zempilo ziquka umhlwa we-ultraviolet, ukungcoliseka, ukutshaya, ukutya okungafanelekanga, kunye nomngcipheko oqhubekayo. Ukuguga kweemeko kukhokelela kwiinguqu ezixhaphakileyo abantu abaninzi abahambelana nokuthi "ubukeka udala" — imigca emikhulu, ukuncipha okubonakalayo, ukungalingani kokupigmenta, umgangatho ombi, kunye nemithambo yegazi ebukekayo.

Umfanekiso ophawulekayo walumahluko uvela kwiingxelo zokhuseleko lwezikhumba ezivunyiweyo ngokumelene nezikhumba ezithintelwe ilanga kumntu omnye. I-arm ephezulu yangaphakathi yomntu, ethola umhlwa omncinci throughout ubomi, ibonakala ikhulile ngama-decade kunobuso bayo, umqala, okanye izandla — nangona zonke ezi ndawo zine-genetics efanayo kwaye zikhule iminyaka efanayo ngokwekhronological. Iingxelo ze-dermatological zicebisa ukuba ukuya kwi-80 ukuya kwi-90 percent yokuguga kwesikhumba okubukekayo kubangelwa ziimeko zempilo, kunye nokufumana umhlwa we-UV njengomphumo ophambili.

Oku kuthetha ukuba uninzi lwezinto esibiza ngokuthi "ukuguga" ngokwenene "umonakalo" — kwaye umonakalo, ngokungafaniyo nokuhamba kwesikhathi, unokuncitshiswa kakhulu ngeendlela ezifanelekileyo. Le ngcaciso iyamandla ngempela. Nangona ungakwazi ukuyeka ukuguga kwemvelo, ungakwazi ukunciphisa kakhulu ukuguga kweemeko ngokubhekisa kwiimeko ezilungiswayo ezikhokelela kuyo. Iindlela ezichazwe kwiingxenye ezilandelayo zijolise kwiimeko ezithile ngamaqhinga axhaswe ngengxelo yezeMpilo kunokuba kube yintengiso.

Uphotoaging — ukuguga kwesikhumba okubangelwa yi-UV radiation — kubangela uninzi lwemigca emikhulu yokuguga, utshintsho lokupigmenta, kunye nokulahleka kokuthamba kwesikhumba. Akukho msebenzi omnye ophosa umphumo ophakathi kokuhlangana komhlwa onokuthi ube neempembelelo ezinkulu kwi-structure yesikhumba kunye nokubukeka kwayo ngexesha lempilo. I-UVA rays, ezibandakanya malunga ne-95 percent ye-UV radiation efika phezulu komhlaba, zifaka ngaphakathi kwi-dermis apho i-collagen kunye ne-elastin zihlala khona.

Zivelisa i-reactive oxygen species ezonakalisa ngqo lezi zinto ezisemgangathweni kunye neefibroblast cells ezikhiqiza zona. Ukufumana i-UVA kukhuthaza i-enzymes ezibizwa ngokuba yi-matrix metalloproteinases ezisebenzayo eziphula i-collagen esele ikhona. Umphumo ophakathi kokuhlangana kukhokelela kumphumo ophindwe kabini — i-UV ibhujisa i-collagen ngaxeshanye kwaye ithintela ukutshintshwa kwayo.

Abaphandi bacacisa ukuba umjikelo omnye wokufumana ilanga okukhulu unokukhuthaza i-enzymes eziphula i-collagen ezihlala zisebenza kwiintsuku ezilandelayo, okuthetha ukuba nokuba umhlwa omncinci unegalelo elikhulu kumjikelo wokuphila.!! I-UVB rays, nangona ziquka isixa esincinci se-UV radiation, zibanga umonakalo oqhelekileyo kwi-DNA kwiiseli zesikhumba kwaye ziyi-umthombo ophambili womonakalo welanga. Ukuphinda umonakalo we-DNA akuphelele, kwaye iimpazamo ezidweliswe ngexesha zikhokelela kokubini kwi-photoaging kunye nomngcipheko we-cancer yesikhumba.

Ukusetyenziswa kwe-sunscreen ye-broad-spectrum yonke imihla kukhulu kakhulu kumjikelo wokuthintela ukuguga. Jonga i daily sunscreen guide yethu ukuze ufumane iindlela ezilungileyo. Uphononongo olukhulu lwase-Australia lwalulandela abantu abangaphezu kwe-900 ngaphezulu kweminyaka emine kwaye lwafumanisa ukuba abo baphosa i-sunscreen yonke imihla babonakalisanga ukwanda okubonakalayo kokuguga kwesikhumba ngexesha lokuphanda, ngelixa iqela elilawulayo likhule ngempumelelo.

Olu phononongo lunika phakathi kweengxelo ezomeleleyo zokuba ukusetyenziswa kwe-sunscreen okuqhubekayo kunceda ngempela ukunciphisa imigca emikhulu kunye notshintsho lokupigmenta — hayi kuphela kwi-theory, kodwa nakwi-practice. Ngaphandle kwe-sunscreen, iindlela zokukhusela ilanga zibalulekile kakhulu. Ukufuna umthunzi phakathi kweeyure ze-UV eziphezulu phakathi kwe-10 AM kunye ne-4 PM, ukugqoka iimpahla zokhuseleko ezibandakanya iibhulukhwe ezibanzi, kunye nokusebenzisa iisokisi zokukhusela i-UV zonke zinciphisa umhlwa ophakathi. Lezi zindlela zokuziphatha ziba zibaluleke ngakumbi njengoko uguga, kuba amandla okuphinda umonakalo wesikhumba ancipha ngexesha.

Phakathi kwezo zinto eziphuma kwi-skin care eziphanda kwi-dermatology, i-retinoids zineengxelo ezomeleleyo nezibanzi. Ziqhamuka kwi-vitamin A, i-retinoids zisebenza ngeendlela ezininzi ukulwa nokuguga kwemvelo kunye nokuguga kweemeko, zenza ukuba zibe neempembelelo ezikhethekileyo kwi-skin care. I-retinoids zisebenza ngokubopha kwiireceptors ezithile ze-nuclear kwiiseli zesikhumba, zikhokelela ngqo kumphumo wegene ophathelele ukuphuma kwemithambo, ukuveliswa kwe-collagen, kunye nokupigmenta.

I-Tretinoin, i-retinoid ye-prescription-strength, ifundwe kwiingxelo zonyango iminyaka emininzi. Ibonisa ngokuqhubekayo amandla okwandisa ubukhulu be-epidermal, ukukhuthaza ukuveliswa kwe-collagen entsha kwi-dermis, ukunciphisa i-hyperpigmentation, kunye nokuphucula umgangatho wesikhumba kunye ne-toni. I-Tretinoin iyona kuphela into ephumayo eneenkcukacha ezingaphezu kwe-50 zeminyaka zonyango ezibonisa amandla ayo okuphinda ibuyisele ukuveliswa kwe-collagen kwi-skin eyonakele ngelanga.!!

I-retinol ethengiswa ngaphandle kwesikhumba kufuneka iguqulwe ibe yi-retinoic acid kwi-sikhumba ngokusebenzisa inkqubo ye-enzymatic yezigaba ezimbini, yenza ukuba ibe neempembelelo ezincinci kodwa ikhawuleze ukunciphisa i-tretinoin. I-retinoid ezitsha ezifana ne-adapalene, i-retinaldehyde, kunye ne-hydroxypinacolone retinoate zineendlela ezahlukeneyo zeempumelelo kunye nokwamkelwa. I-key yokusebenzisa i-retinoid ngempumelelo kukubekezela kunye nokwazisa kancinci.

Ukuqala ngengxaki ephantsi izihlandlo ezimbini ukuya kwezintathu ngeveki kwaye kancinci ukwandisa umjikelo ngexesha elithile kuvumela isikhumba ukuba sibe nendawo yokuhlala ngelixa kuncitshiswa ixesha lokuqala lokuphuma, ukuncipha, kunye nokukhathala. Ukufaka i-retinoids kwisikhumba esomile kunokuba yindlela engcono kunokufaka kwi-sikhumba esimanzi, kwaye ukunciphisa nge-moisturizer ukuba kuyafuneka, kunokunciphisa umonakalo. I-retinoids zandisa umphumo wokukhathazeka, yenza ukuba ukusetyenziswa kwe-sunscreen yonke imihla kube yinto engavumelekanga ngexesha le-retinoid therapy.

Faka i-retinoids ebusuku kwaye ukhusele ngokuqinileyo ngexesha lemihla. Abaninzi be-dermatologists bacinga ukuba umxube wokusebenzisa i-sunscreen yonke imihla kunye ne-retinoid ebusuku kukhulu kakhulu kumjikelo wokuthintela ukuguga. Iziphumo zokusebenzisa i-retinoid ziqhubeka kancinci — kulindeleke ukuba kube neminyaka emithathu ukuya kwemithandathu yokusebenzisa ngokungaguquguquki ngaphambi kokuba kube neziphumo ezibonakalayo kumgca omninzi kunye nomgangatho. Ukuphinda i-collagen kukhulu kakhulu, kwaye iinguqu ezikhona, nangona zikhona, zikhula kancinci kunokuba zizele.

Ngenkathi ii-retinoids zikhuthaza ngokwenene ukuveliswa kwe-collagen entsha, ii-antioxidants zisebenza njengesikhumbuzo ngokukhusela i-collagen esele kunye nezakhiwo ze-cellular kwi-oxidative damage. Ndawonye, le mikhakha mibini yezithako idala indlela ebanzi yokugcina ubume be-skin bukhuni ngexesha. I-Vitamin C, kwi-form yayo esebenzayo ye-L-ascorbic acid, yi-antioxidant ye-topical efundwe kakhulu yokulwa nokuguga.

Kwi-concentrations ye-10 ukuya kwi-20 percent, iyanciphisa ii-free radicals eziveliswa kukukhanya kwe-UV kunye nokungcoliseka, iphakamisa ukuveliswa kwe-collagen ngokusebenza njengomphakathi obalulekileyo kwi-enzyme ezenza iifiber ze-collagen, kwaye iyavimba ukuveliswa kwe-melanin ukuze ilungise umphumo wombala wesikhumba. I-serum ye-vitamin C eyilwe kakuhle efakwe ekuseni inika ukhuseleko olungaphezulu lwe-UV olungqinelanayo xa isetyenziswa phantsi kwe-sunscreen. I-Vitamin E isebenza ngokubambisana ne-vitamin C, kwaye iifom ziquka zombini kunye ne-ferulic acid ziboniswe ukuba zikhusela ukuya kwi-eightfold kwi-UV-induced free radical damage xa kuthelekiswa nesikhumba esingakhuselwanga.

Le ndibano ibonisa enye yeendlela eziphuhliswe kakhulu ze-antioxidant ze-topical ezikhoyo. I-Niacinamide, ifom ye-vitamin B3, ixhasa ibhodi yesikhumba, inciphisa ukungakhululeki, kwaye iboniswe ukuba ithuthukisa imigca emincinci, i-hyperpigmentation, kunye ne-elasticity yesikhumba kwiimfundo zonyango. Iyamkelwa kakuhle ngohlobo lwezikhumba zonke kwaye ingadibana nezinye izinto ezisebenzayo ngaphandle kwezithintelo.

I-Peptides ziicheni ezimfutshane ze-amino acids ezisebenza njengeemolekyuli zokuxhumana kwisikhumba. Ezinye iipeptides, ngakumbi i-palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 kunye neekhopha ze-copper, zibonise amandla okukhuthaza ukuveliswa kwe-collagen kunye ne-elastin kwiimfundo zonyango. Ngenkathi ubungqina be-peptides bungabanzi njengoko be-retinoids okanye i-vitamin C, bahlala bephakamisa ukhetho oluthambileyo kubantu abangakwazi ukumelana ne-retinoids.

I-Coenzyme Q10, i-resveratrol, kunye ne-polyphenols ye-tea eluhlaza ziqinisekisa umphakathi we-antioxidant ngeendlela zabo ezixhasayo zokunciphisa ii-free radicals kunye nezenzo zokunciphisa ukungakhululeki. Iindlela ezisebenzayo zokulwa nokuguga zisebenzisa ii-antioxidants ezininzi endaweni yokuthembela kwi-sithako esinye, njengoko ii-antioxidants ezahlukeneyo ziqhuba iintlobo ezahlukeneyo ze-oxidative damage kwaye zisebenza kwiindawo ezahlukeneyo ze-cellular.

Ngenkathi iimveliso ze-topical zifumana ingqalelo enkulu kwiingxoxo zokulwa nokuguga, iimpawu zokuPhila zineempembelelo ezinkulu kumjikelo wokukhula kwesikhumba. Iimpawu ezininzi eziguqukayo zixhaphake kakhulu kwiingxelo ezinkulu ezixhaphakileyo. Ukutshaya kuza kwindawo yesibini emva kokukhanya kwelanga njengomphumo wokuguga kwesikhumba.

Umphunga we-tobacco uqulethe iikhimikhali eziliqela ezivelisa umonakalo omkhulu we-free radical, unciphisa iivenkile zegazi ezinciphisa ukuhanjiswa kwe-oxygen kunye neenxalenye kwi-skin, uthoba i-collagen kunye ne-elastin, kwaye uvimba ukuveliswa kwe-collagen entsha. Uphando oluqhathanisa iitwin ezifanayo apho omnye etshaya kwaye omnye engatshayi ubonisa ukuba i-twin etshayayo ibonakala ihamba phambili ngonyaka, inezigaba ezinzulu, ukungabikho kokukhululeka kwesikhumba, kunye neebhagi ezingaphantsi kwemphunga kunomntwana wabo ofanayo.!! Ukutya kudlala indima ebonakalayo kwi-aging yesikhumba.

Njengoko kuchaziwe kwi-gayidi yethu kwi-how diet affects your skin, ukutya okuphezulu kwiifruity ezine-antioxidant kunye nemifuno, i-omega-3 fatty acids, kunye neeprotein ezilula zixhasa iimeko zokuphucula zesikhumba, ngelixa ukutya okuphezulu kwe-sugar, okwenziwe kakhulu, kukhuthaza i-glycation kunye ne-inflammation ezonakalisa i-collagen. Ukungabikho kokulala kuphucula iindlela zokuphucula ezibhalwe ngobusuku ezigcina impilo yesikhumba. I-hormone yokukhula, ekhutshelwa ikakhulu ngexesha lokulala okujolise, iphakamisa ukuveliswa kwe-collagen kunye nokuphucula iiseli.

Ukuncitshiswa kokulala okuqhubekayo kuholela ekwandeni kwe-cortisol, okuphula i-collagen, kwaye kunciphisa ixesha elikhoyo kwi-program yokuphucula yesikhumba ye-circadian. Ukuthengisa i-alcohol kunokunceda ekugugeni kwesikhumba ngenxa yokungabikho kwamanzi, ukungakhululeki, kunye nokuphazamiseka kokufunyanwa kwezondlo. Iphinda ikhulise iivenkile zegazi, ezikhokelela kumphumo wokuba kube ne-redness engapheliyo kunye neekhapili eziphukileyo, ngakumbi kwisikhumba sobuso.

Ukuzivocavoca rhoqo kuhlomla ukuguga kwesikhumba ngokuphucula ukuhamba, ukunciphisa ukungakhululeki, kunye nokwehla kwee-levels ze-cortisol. Uphando oluthile luphakamisa ukuba ukuzivocavoca kungaphinda kuphucule ukuguga kwesikhumba kubantu abadala ngokuphucula ubume be-dermal kunye ne-epidermal yesikhumba.