Ukunisela kunye neMpilo yeSikhumba: Iinyani malunga neMvula & Umxube

Iimeko ezimbalwa kwi-skin care zivelisa ukudideka okungakumbi njengokunisela. Izeluleko ezilula zokuthi "phuza amanzi amaninzi ukuze uthole isikhumba esingcono" zikhona yonke indawo, nangona kunjalo isayensi yangempela yokunisela isikhumba iyinkimbinkimbi ngakumbi kwaye iyamangalisa. Ukuqonda indlela isikhumba sakho esithola, esilahlekelwa, kwaye sigcine umxube — kunye nomphakathi phakathi kokunisela kunye nomxube — kubalulekile ekwakheni umjikelo ohlala uqinisekisa ukuba isikhumba sakho sikhululekile, sithambile, kwaye sinempilo.

Ubudlelwane phakathi kokuthatha amanzi kunye nokubukeka kwesikhumba buye bube phakathi kwezihloko eziphambili kwiingxoxo zokunisela isikhumba, kwaye iinyani zinkulu ngakumbi kunokuba omabini amaqela abanga. Akukho mbandela wokuthi ukuphuza amanzi kuzakutshintsha isikhumba sakho okanye ukungabikho kokuthatha amanzi akukhange kubonakale ukuba kubalulekile empilweni yesikhumba, kubonisa ubungqina besayensi. Isikhumba sakho sithola umxube ukusuka ngaphakathi, sithunyelwa ngegazi kwi-dermis, apho sihamba phezulu ukuze sithathe umxube kwi-epidermis.

Le mveliso yamanzi yangaphakathi ibalulekile — ukungabikho kokunisela okukhulu kukhokelela kwisikhumba esibonakalayo esomile, esiphakanyisiweyo, kwaye esingenamsebenzi. Nangona kunjalo, umzimba ubeka phambili ukusasaza amanzi kwiingxenye ezibalulekileyo, kwaye isikhumba, nangona sikhulu, sithola amanzi okugqibela kwi-hierarchy yeemfuno ze-physiological. Kumntu osele enesikhumba esanele, ukuphuza amanzi angaphezulu kokufuneka akukaziswa ukuba kuthintele ukubukeka kwesikhumba kwiingxelo ezinzima zophando.

Iikhiya zisebenza kakuhle ukulawula ibhalansi yamanzi, kwaye ukuthathwa okungaphezulu kuphumeza kuphela kungekhona ukunceda isikhumba. Uhlolo lwezincwadi olwenziwe ngo-2018 lwafumanisa ubungqina obuncinci bokuba ukwandiswa kokuthatha amanzi kubalulekile kwi-physiology yesikhumba kwiindividi ezingekho emanzini. Nokuba kunjalo, ukungabikho kokunisela okuncinci kuyenzeka rhoqo kunokuba abantu abaninzi bacinga, ngakumbi phakathi kwabantu abadala, abo bathatha i-caffeine okanye i-alkoholo eninzi, kunye nabantu abahlala kwiindawo ezishushu okanye ezomileyo.

Kwiindividi ezinjalo, ukuqinisekisa ukwenziwa kokunisela kungangena ngempela kwiingxaki ezibonakalayo kwi-turgor yesikhumba kunye nokukhanya. Nangona ukuphuza amanzi angaphezulu kokunisela okwaneleyo kungakaziswa ukuba kuthintele ukubukeka kwesikhumba, nokuba ukungabikho kokunisela okuncinci kunganciphisa i-turgor yesikhumba kwaye kube negalelo kumjikelo ophumayo, ongenamsebenzi.!! Umphumo ophilayo kukuba ukwenziwa kokunisela kubalulekile kodwa akukufanelekanga ukuze isikhumba sibe sempilweni.

Isikhumba sakho sidinga umxube wangaphakathi kunye nokhuseleko lwangaphandle ukuze kugcinwe umgangatho ophezulu wokunisela. Ukhathalelo lwangaphandle lwe-skin care lujolise kumphakathi wangaphandle, owaziwa kakhulu njengomphakathi ophumelelayo kumphakathi wokubukeka nokuziva kwesikhumba sakho.

Ukulahleka kwamandla okunisela, okujolise kakhulu njenge-TEWL, ngumjikelo oqhubekayo apho amanzi aphuma kwiindawo ezijulile zesikhumba ngokusebenzisa i-epidermis kwaye angene kumoya ophakathi. Le yinkqubo ejolise kwi-physiology, kodwa xa i-TEWL idlula umjikelo wokubuyiselwa komxube, isikhumba siba semanzini — kungakhathaliseki ukuba uphuza malini amanzi. I-stratum corneum, umgangatho ophakathi kwesikhumba, isebenza njengezithintelo eziphambili zokulahleka kwamandla okunisela.

Lo mgangatho uvame ukuchazwa usebenzisa umfanekiso we-"izitena kunye ne-mortar": i-corneocytes (i-skin cells ezifeleyo) ziizitena, kwaye i-lipids eziphakathi — ikakhulu i-ceramides, i-cholesterol, kunye neefaty acids ezikhululekileyo — ziyi-mortar. Xa le matrix ye-lipid igcinwe, i-TEWL igcinwa kwinqanaba elilawulwayo. Xa iphukile, amanzi aphuma ngokukhawuleza.

Iimeko ezininzi zingaphazamisa le mveliso kwaye zandise i-TEWL. Iikhemikhali ezinzima ezisusa i-lipids zemvelo, ukuxhaphaza, ukujolisa kumanzi ashisayo, umswakama ophantsi, umoya opholileyo, kunye nezinye iimeko zesikhumba ezifana ne-eczema zonke zinciphisa umphakathi we-lipid. Ubudala buye busebenze — isikhumba sithumela i-lipids ezincinci njengoko sikhula, ukwenza i-stratum corneum ingabi namandla kangako ekugcineni umxube.

I-TEWL iyakwazi ukulinganiswa usebenzisa izixhobo ezikhethekileyo, kwaye oodermatologist basebenzisa le mlinganiselo ukuze bahlalutye umsebenzi we-lipids ngokungakhethi. I-TEWL ephezulu ibonisa ukungaphumeleli kokhuseleko. Ngokumangalisayo, i-TEWL iyahluka kakhulu kwiindawo ezahlukeneyo zomzimba — ubuso, iipalms, kunye neentloko zine-TEWL ephezulu kunomzimba okanye iimbambo, okucacisa ukuba kutheni isikhumba sobuso sikhuthaza ukungabikho kokunisela.

Ukuqonda i-TEWL kuhlaziya umgomo wokunisela isikhumba. Endaweni yokongeza amanzi kwisikhumba, indlela ephumelelayo kakhulu kukunciphisa umjikelo wokuphuma kwamandla ngelixa uqinisekisa ukwenziwa kokunisela ukusuka kwiindawo zangaphakathi nangaphandle. Apha, ukuhlukaniswa phakathi kwe-humectants kunye ne-occlusives kuba kubalulekile.

AmaMoisturizers awadlalwa nganye, kwaye ukuqonda iimeko ezintathu ezisebenzayo zezakhi ze-moisturizing (jonga umhlahlandlela wethu amaMoisturizers achaziwe ukuze ufumane okungakumbi) — i-humectants, i-emollients, kunye ne-occlusives — kukunceda ukhetha iimveliso ezijolise kwiimfuno zakho zokunisela. I-Humectants ziingxaki ezithatha kwaye zibophe amanzi. Zithatha umxube kwiimithombo ezimbini: umoya xa umswakama uphakamile, kunye neendawo ezijulile zesikhumba.

I-humectants ezidumileyo ziquka i-hyaluronic acid, i-glycerin, i-urea, i-propylene glycol, kunye ne-alpha hydroxy acids. I-hyaluronic acid ikakhulu idumile kuba umgca omnye unokugcina ukuya kwi-1,000 izihlandlo zesisindo sayo emanzini, idala umphumo obonakalayo wokuphakamisa kwisikhumba. I-Glycerin, enye ye-humectants eziphuhliswe kakhulu kwi-dermatology, ihlala ikhuphuka kwi-hyaluronic acid kwiingxelo zophando ezilinganisayo ukuphuculwa kokunisela kwesikhumba, nangona ithola ingxenye encinci yokuthengisa.!!

Nangona kunjalo, i-humectants kuphela azanele kwiimeko ezomileyo. Xa umoya ophakathi unomswakama ophantsi, i-humectants zingathatha amanzi phezulu kwi-dermis kunokuba zisebenze kumoya, okukhokelela ekwandeni kokungabikho kokunisela ukuba akukhushelwe ngumbhobho we-occlusive. I-Occlusives idala umphakathi ophilayo phezu kwesikhumba ophucula i-TEWL ngokuthintela amanzi ukuba aphume.

I-Petrolatum iyona occlusive ephumelelayo kakhulu, inciphisa i-TEWL ukuya kwi-99 percent. Ezinye i-occlusives ziquka i-dimethicone, i-lanolin, i-mineral oil, i-beeswax, kunye nebutter yeplant efana ne-shea kunye ne-cocoa butter. I-Occlusives azifaki umxube — zikhusela kuphela ukulahleka kwayo, zenza zibe neempumelelo kakhulu xa zifakwa kwisikhumba esikwi-hydrated.

I-Emollients igcwalisa iindawo phakathi kweeseli zesikhumba, ibhiyozela umphakathi kwaye iphucula umgangatho opheleleyo wesikhumba. I-Ceramides, i-squalane, i-faty alcohols, kunye neoli ezahlukeneyo zeplant zisebenza njenge-emollients. Ziphinde zibe negalelo ekuphuculeni umphakathi ngokuphinda zifake okanye zisebenzise i-lipids zemvelo eziphakathi kwe-stratum corneum.

AmaMoisturizers aphumelelayo kakhulu ahlanganisa zonke iimeko ezintathu. I-humectant ithatha amanzi, i-emollient ibhiyozela kwaye iphucula, kwaye i-occlusive igcina yonke into endaweni. Ukuqonda le migaqo kukuvumela ukuba ulungiselele indlela yakho yokunisela ngokusekelwe kwiimfuno ezithile zesikhumba sakho kunye nemozulu yakho.

Enye yeziqhamo ezibaluleke kakhulu kwi-hydration yesikhumba kukwahluka phakathi komphakathi oMhlophe kunye nomphakathi oDry. Nangona amagama la asetshenziswa ngokufanayo kwiingxoxo zansuku zonke, achaza iimeko ezahlukeneyo ngokuyintloko ezineemvelaphi ezahlukeneyo kunye nezixazululo ezahlukeneyo. Umphakathi oDry uhlobo lwesikhumba oluchazwe ngokunganeliseki kokukhiqiza uwoyela (sebum).

Ngokuqhelekileyo, le meko ibangelwa yizizathu ezizodwa kwaye ibonakala ngokuqhubekayo throughout ubomi. Umphakathi oDry awunayo i-lipids efunekayo ukuze kwakhiwe ibhodi eqinileyo, oku kuholela ekulahlekelweni kokungena komswakama, ukuncipha, kunye nesikhumba esingapholisi. Iqhelekile emzimbeni — ngakumbi ezinyaweni eziphantsi, ezandleni, nasezandleni — kwaye ibonakala ibi ngokuhamba kwexesha njengoko ukusebenza kwe-gland ye-sebaceous kwehla.

Umphakathi oMhlophe, ngakolunye uhlangothi, ungumsebenzi wesikhashana ochazwe ngokunganeliseki kokungena kwamanzi kwi-stratum corneum. Ngokubalulekileyo, nayiphi na uhlobo lwesikhumba lungaba umphakathi oMhlophe — kuquka nesikhumba esinowoyela. Umphakathi oMhlophe uvame ukuvela ngokuziva k tight, ukungakhululeki, ukubonakala okungathandekiyo, imigca emincinci ebonakalayo, kwaye ngokungathandekiyo, ngamanye amaxesha ukwandisa ukungena kwama-oil njengoko isikhumba sikhupha uwoyela ngokweqile ukuze silungiselele ukungabikho kwamanzi.

Ukuhlula kubalulekile kuba iindlela zokwelapha zihluke. Umphakathi oDry uthola inzuzo enkulu kwiimveliso ezine-lipid — iikrelem, i-oils yobuso, kunye neefomulations zokuphucula ibhodi ezine-ceramides kunye ne-fatty acids. Umphakathi oMhlophe udinga ama-humectants akhuthazayo amanzi, iimveliso ezithambileyo ezixhasa ibhodi, kwaye ngamanye amaxesha, ukujolisa kwakhona kwiingxaki ezithile ezibangelwa ukulahleka kokungena kwamanzi.

Isikhumba esinowoyela sinokuthi sibe umphakathi oMhlophe ngaxeshanye, umphakathi ophosakeleyo ofumaneka ngokuqhelekileyo njengokuthi ube sinowoyela, oku kuholela abantu ukuba bahlakulele isikhumba sabo ngakumbi ngeemveliso ezinzima xa bephosa imveliso yokufaka amanzi kunye nezithako zokuphucula ibhodi.!! Abaninzi abantu abane-skin combination bahlala bephila nesikhumba esinowoyela esinokuthi sibe umphakathi oMhlophe — banokukhiqiza uwoyela okwanele okanye okungaphezulu kodwa bengenayo ukugcina amanzi ngokwaneleyo. Ukuphosa iimveliso ezithambileyo kunye neeklensi ezinzima kwenza ingxaki ibi ngokuphosa ibhodi kwaye kukhuphula i-TEWL.

Ukuhlola okulula ekhaya kungasiza ukuhlula ezi zimbini. Ukuba isikhumba sakho siziva sithambile emva kokuhlamba kodwa siba sinowoyela phakathi kwehora okanye ezimbini, umphakathi oMhlophe mhlawumbi nguMphakathi ophambili. Ukuba isikhumba sakho sihlala sithambile, sikhupha, kwaye asikhiqizi uwoyela obonakalayo, mhlawumbi unomphakathi oDry ngempela. Ngokuqinisekileyo, abanye abantu banomphakathi oDry ophinde ube umphakathi oMhlophe, ofuna kokubini ukugcwalisa i-lipid kunye namanzi.

Uphumelele ngokuqonda indlela i-hydration yesikhumba esebenza ngayo, ungakha umkhwa ophuhliswe ngokukodwa ukuze uthuthukise amazinga omswakama wesikhumba sakho. Le ndlela igxile kwiimigaqo emithathu: nikeza amanzi kwisikhumba, uqinisekise ibhodi egcina amanzi, kwaye unciphise iindlela kunye neemveliso ezithintela umswakama. Qala ngokuhlola i-cleanser yakho.

Iiklinzi ezinzima ezine-sulfate zihlamba ibhodi ye-lipid kwaye ziyi-nto eyodwa eyaziwa kakhulu yokubangela umphakathi oMhlophe kumkhwa wokunakekela isikhumba. 5, ehambelana ne-acid mantle yesikhumba. Iikrelem, ubisi, okanye i-gel cleaners ezine-foaming ephantsi zihlamba ngempumelelo ngaphandle kokuphosa i-lipids zebhodi.

Emva kokuhlamba, sebenzisa i-hydrating toner okanye i-essence kwisikhumba esimanzi. Ezi mveliso ezilula, ezine-mveliso ye-water zikhupha umjikelo wokuqala we-humectants owenza isikhumba silungele ukwamkela iimveliso ezilandelayo. Jonga izithako ezifana ne-hyaluronic acid, glycerin, panthenol, kunye ne-beta-glucan.

Ukuphosa imveliso kwisikhumba kunokuthuthuzela ukufakwa okungcono. Emva koko, sebenzisa i-hydrating serum. Le nyathelo igxile ekuthumeleni i-humectant kwaye ingabandakanya izithako ezongezelelweyo eziluncedo ezifana ne-niacinamide yokuxhasa ibhodi okanye i-centella asiatica yokuthomalalisa.

Ukuba isikhumba sakho sikhupha, le nyathelo ivame ukuba yinto ebalulekileyo kumkhwa, njengoko inika umjikelo ophakanyisiweyo wezithako ezibophelelayo. I-moisturizer yakho kufuneka ibandakanye i-humectants, i-emollients, kunye ne-occlusives ezifanelekileyo kumphakathi wakho kunye nemozulu. Kwiimeko ezinomswakama, i-gel-cream ethambileyo ingaba yanele.

Kwiimeko ezidumileyo okanye ezibandayo, i-cream enobunzima obukhulu kunye neempawu ezinamandla ze-occlusive iyafuneka. Umhlahlandlela wethu winter skincare routine uquka izicwangciso zexesha leqhwa ngokuqhubekayo. Faka kwi-skin esimanzi okanye esanda kuthethwa ukuze ugcine wonke umswakama kwiingqimba zakho zangaphambili.

Kwi-skin ezidumileyo okanye ezimhlophe kakhulu, cinga ngendlela ye-"moisture sandwich": sebenzisa i-humectant serum, emva koko i-moisturizer, emva koko ube ne-hydrating toner, emva koko uvalele ngegqirha yokufaka amanzi okanye i-balm ye-occlusive. Le ndlela ye-multi-step ikhulisa kokubini ukuthumela amanzi kunye nokugcina, ibhekisela kumphakathi we-hydration kwiindawo zonke. Kubalulekile ukuba uqaphele nokuba yintoni okufanele uyigweme.

Nciphisa ukuvela kwamanzi ashushu kakhulu, unciphise um frequency ye-exfoliants ezinzima ukuba ibhodi yakho iphosakele, gcina i-toners ezine-alcohol, kwaye sebenzisa i-humidifier kwiindawo ezomileyo. Ngamanye amaxesha, indlela ephumelelayo yokufaka amanzi kukuyeka iindlela ezibangela ukulahleka kokungena komswakama.