Izithako Ezingcono Zesikhumba Esikhanyayo (Umhlahlandlela Osekelwe kwiSayensi)

Umzi mveliso wokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ugcwele iimveliso eziliqela, kodwa iimpawu ezithile ezenza umahluko obonakalayo kwisikhumba sakho zifundwe ngokubanzi kwiingxelo zophando lwezokwelapha ezivunyiweyo. Ukuqonda ukuba ezi zinto zibalulekileyo zisebenza njani kwi-level ye-cell kunceda ukhethe iimveliso ngokucacileyo endaweni yokuphosa kwiingxelo zokuthengisa. Iimpawu ezisebenzayo ziingxenye kwiimveliso zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ezihambisa umphumo ophawulekayo kwi-skin.

Zihluke kwiingxenye ezingasebenziyo okanye ezisiseko (njengamanzi, i-emulsifiers, kunye ne-preservatives) ezinika iimveliso umphumo wayo kunye nokuzinza kodwa azishintshi ngqo isikhumba. Iimpawu ezisebenzayo eziphuhliswe kakhulu zihlala kwiimeko ezahlukeneyo: i-antioxidants ezithintela umonakalo we-free radical, i-retinoids ezilawula ukutshintsha kwee-cell kunye nokwenziwa kwe-collagen, i-asidi ezikhupha iiseli zesikhumba ezifa kwaye zikhulisa umphumo, i-humectants ezidonsa umswakama kwisikhumba, kunye neengxenye zokuphucula umphakamo wesikhumba ezomeleza umqolo ophakathi kwesikhumba. Xa ukhetha iimveliso, umphumo weemveliso ezisebenzayo ubaluleke kakhulu.

I-serum ye-vitamin C kwi-15 percent isebenza ngokwahlukileyo kwi-2 percent. Ngokufanayo, i-formulation ejolise kwi-ingredient esebenzayo ithintela ukuzinza kwayo kunye nokungena. Iimveliso ezilungiselelwe kakuhle kwi-concentration ephakathi zihlala zisebenza ngcono kuneemveliso ezilungiselelwe kakuhle kwi-concentration ephezulu.

I-pH yeemveliso ikwaphinda ithintela indlela iimpawu ezithile ezisebenza ngayo. 5, ngelixa i-niacinamide isebenza ngokufanelekileyo kwi-pH phakathi kwe-5 kunye ne-7. Ezi nkcukacha zobuchwephesha zichaza ukuba kutheni ezinye iimveliso zikhupha iziphumo ezimangalisayo ngelixa ezinye ezine-ingredient efanayo zingaphumelelanga.

I-Retinoids ziimpawu ezivela kwi-vitamin A kwaye zimele iklasi eyodwa ebalulekileyo kakhulu yeempawu kwi-dermatology. Zisebenza ngokubopha kwiireceptors ezithile kwiiseli zesikhumba, zandisa umjikelo weeseli, zikhuthaza ukuveliswa kwe-collagen kunye ne-elastin kwi-dermis, kwaye zilawula ukuveliswa kwe-sebum. Umphumo kukuba umphumo ube m smoother, ukunciphisa iimpawu ezincinci kunye neekhamandela, ukunciphisa umphumo wesikhumba, kunye nokunciphisa iimpawu zokuphuma.

I-tretinoin (i-retinoic acid) yokubhaliswa iyindlela enamandla kakhulu kwaye ineminyaka emininzi yeengxelo zonyango ezixhasa ukusebenza kwayo kokuba ne-anti-aging kunye ne-acne. I-retinol ethengiswa ngaphandle kokubhaliswa iyindlela ethambileyo engama-retinoid, eyenziwa ukuba isikhumba sikhulule i-retinoic acid. Ithambile kodwa ifuna ukusebenzisa rhoqo kwiinyanga ezimbalwa ukuze ibonakale iziphumo.

Iindlela ezintsha ze-retinoid ezifana ne-adapalene (okukhoyo ngoku ngaphandle kokubhaliswa kwiimarike ezithile) kunye ne-retinal (i-retinaldehyde) zikhupha iindlela eziphakathi ezisebenza ngcono kune-retinol kodwa zikhululekile ngakumbi kune-tretinoin. Iingxelo zonyango zibonisile ukuba ukusebenzisa i-retinoid rhoqo kwiiveki eziyi-12 kungandisa ubukhulu be-epidermis ngaphezulu kwe-25 percent kwaye kukhuthaze kakhulu ukuveliswa kwe-collagen kwi-dermis.!! Ukuqala i-retinoid kudinga umonde kunye nendlela eguqukayo.

Qala nge-concentration ephantsi kabini ukuya kathathu ngeveki kwi-skin eyomileyo emva kokuhlamba. Lindela ixesha lokulungisa leminyaka emine ukuya kwemibini apho ungaziva umswakama, ukungqubana, kunye nokungonwabi, okujolise kwi-period ye-retinization. Le yimpawu eqhelekileyo yokuba i-ingredient iyasebenza.

Ngexesha leli xesha, sebenzisa i-moisturizer enomthamo omkhulu, gcina kwi-exfoliants, kwaye faka i-sunscreen ngokucokisekileyo njengoko i-retinoids zandisa i-photosensitivity. Ukuphuma kwesikhumba kwakho, ungakhawulezisa ukwandisa umphumo ukuya kwi-nyanga yonke. I-retinoids azincomi ngexesha lokukhulelwa okanye lokuncancisa.

I-Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) ingenye ye-antioxidants ezisebenzayo kakhulu ezikhoyo. Ithintela i-free radicals eziveliswa yi-UV radiation kunye nokungcoliseka, ikhanyisa isikhumba ngokuthintela ukuveliswa kwe-melanin okungaphezulu, kwaye ixhasa ukuveliswa kwe-collagen. 5.

I-Vitamin C iyaziwa ngokungazinzanga kwaye iyonakalisa xa iboniswa kumalanga, umoya, kunye ne-heat. Khetha iimveliso ezikwi-packaging engacacanga, engavulekanga kwaye uphumeze nayiphi na serum eyaphenduka mnyama okanye i-orange, njengoko oku kubonisa i-oxidation. I-Vitamin C kunye ne-sunscreen xa zisebenza kunye zinika ukhuseleko olukhulu kakhulu kwi-skin damage eyenziwe yi-UV kunokuba imveliso nganye isetyenziswe yodwa.!!

I-Niacinamide (i-vitamin B3) yinto enomsebenzi omkhulu kakhulu edibanisa iingxaki ezininzi zesikhumba ngaxeshanye. Kwi-concentrations ze-2 ukuya kwi-5 percent, ikhulisa umqolo wesikhumba ngokukhuthaza ukuveliswa kwe-ceramide, inciphisa ubomvu kunye nokuvuvukala, ilawula ukuveliswa kwe-sebum, kwaye icima i-hyperpigmentation ngokuthintela ukuhanjiswa kwe-melanin kwiiseli zesikhumba. Ngokungafani nezinye iimpawu, i-niacinamide iyamkelwa kakuhle kwiintlobo ezininzi zesikhumba, kubandakanywa nesikhumba esithambileyo, kwaye ayibangeli i-photosensitivity.

Ihlangene kakuhle nezinye iimpawu, yenza kube lula ukuyongeza kwiimeko. Ezinye i-antioxidants ezibalulekileyo ziquka i-vitamin E (tocopherol), esebenza ngokudibanisa ne-vitamin C ukuphucula ukuzinza kwayo kunye nokusebenza. I-Resveratrol, ethathwe kwiigilebhisi, inemiphumo ye-anti-inflammatory kunye ne-anti-aging.

I-Green tea extract (epigallocatechin gallate) iyanti-inflammatory enamandla ethambisa isikhumba esiphendulayo. I-Ferulic acid iyazinzisa iivithamini C kunye ne-E kwaye ikhulisa imiphumo yazo yokukhusela. I-serum edibanisa iivithamini C kunye ne-E kunye ne-ferulic acid ingenye yeempawu ezineengxelo ezilungileyo kakhulu ze-antioxidant ezikhoyo kwaye inika ukhuseleko oluqinileyo lwemihla ngemihla kwi-damage yezeMvelo.

I-chemical exfoliants iyakhipha iibhondi ezibamba iiseli zesikhumba ezifa phezulu, ibonisa isikhumba esithambileyo, esikhanyayo ngaphantsi. Zihlala kwiimeko ezintathu eziphambili, nganye inezinto ezahlukeneyo. I-alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) ziquka i-glycolic acid kunye ne-lactic acid.

I-glycolic acid inobungakanani be-molecular obuncinci, ivumela ukuba ingene ng глубоко kwaye ikhiqize imiphumo emikhulu, kodwa inokubangela ukungonwabi ngakumbi. I-lactic acid inobungakanani be-molecular obukhulu, ingena ngothando, kwaye iphinda isebenze njenge-humectant, idonsa umswakama kwisikhumba. I-AHAs zixhoma emanzini kwaye zisebenza phezulu kwesikhumba, zenza ukuba zifaneleke kakhulu ekuthinteleni ukungaboni, umphumo ongalingani, iimpawu ezincinci, kunye ne-hyperpigmentation.

I-beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), ikakhulu i-salicylic acid, iyasoloko emanzini, oku kuthetha ukuba ingena kwiipore kwaye ikhiphe i-sebum kunye neeseli ezifa ezibangela ukungqubana. I-salicylic acid yiyo kuphela i-chemical exfoliant esetyenziswa ngokuxhaphakileyo esebenza ngaphakathi kwi-pore, yenza ukuba ibe neempumelelo ezikhethekileyo zokuphucula kunye nokuthintela i-blackheads, i-whiteheads, kunye ne-acne.!! Ikwa inemiphumo ye-anti-inflammatory esiza ukuthambisa iimpawu ezisebenzayo.

I-polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) ezifana ne-gluconolactone kunye ne-lactobionic acid zi-exfoliants ezithambileyo. Ubukhulu bazo be-molecular obukhulu buza nomphumo kuphela phezulu kwesikhumba ngaphandle kokungena ngokwaneleyo ukuze kubangele ukungonwabi. I-PHAs iphinda isebenze njenge-humectants kunye ne-antioxidants, zenza ukuba zifaneleke kwi-skin ethambileyo, ethambileyo, okanye i-eczema-prone engakwazi ukumelana ne-AHAs okanye i-BHAs.

Xa ufaka i-acids ezikhupha, qala nge-concentration ephantsi kwaye uzisebenzise kabini ukuya kathathu ngeveki. Khulisa umphumo kancinci kuphela ukuba isikhumba sakho siyayamkela. Ukuphosa kakhulu i-exfoliation yenye ye iimpazamo zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, ebangela umonakalo kumqolo wesikhumba, ukwanda kokungonwabi, kunye nempazamo yokuba umphumo wesikhumba ube mbi ngakumbi kunye neempawu zokuphuma.

Iingxenye zokuhydrate kunye nezokuphucula umqolo zisiseko apho zonke ezinye iimpawu ezisebenzayo zisebenza ngcono. Ngaphandle kokuhydrate ngokwaneleyo kunye nomqolo wesikhumba ogqibeleleyo, nokuba zeziphi i-serums ezilungileyo ziya kuhluleka okanye zibangele ukungonwabi. I-Hyaluronic acid yi-glycosaminoglycan ekhoyo ngokwemvelo kwisikhumba esinokugcina umswakama ophakathi kwe-1,000 xesisindo sayo emanzini.

I-hyaluronic acid esebenzayo kwiiserum kunye ne-moisturizers idonsa umswakama kwiimeko kunye neelayer zesikhumba ezijulileyo ziye kwi-epidermis ephezulu, ibhiyozela isikhumba kwaye ithambise iimpawu ezincinci. Jonga iimveliso eziquka iimeko ezininzi ze-molecular weights ye-hyaluronic acid, njengoko i-molecules ezincinci zingenisa ngaphezulu ngelixa i-molecules ezinkulu zikhupha umphumo. I-Ceramides ziilayidi ezibalulekileyo ezimele malunga ne-50 percent yomqolo wesikhumba, kwaye ukuxhasa i-ceramides ngokwenene kuboniswe ukuba kuphucula umonakalo wombhobho kunye nokunciphisa ukulahleka kwamanzi kwiintsuku ezimbalwa.!!

Zibaluleke kakhulu kwi-skin eyomileyo, i-eczema-prone, okanye i-sensitized esonakaliswe ziimveliso ezinzima okanye uxinzelelo lwezeMvelo. I-Squalane, ethathwe kwi-oli okanye kwi-sugarcane, ibonisa umphumo ofana ne-sebum yemvelo yesikhumba sakho kwaye inika umswakama ongenamthwalo, ongenamphumo. I-Peptides ziicheni ezimfutshane ze-amino acids ezisebenza njengezaziso zechemicals kwisikhumba.

Iipeptides ezahlukeneyo zisebenza ngeenjongo ezahlukeneyo: i-peptides ezisigxina ezifana ne-palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 zikhuthaza ukuveliswa kwe-collagen kunye ne-elastin, i-peptides ezithintela i-neurotransmitter ezifana ne-argireline zinganciphisa ukubonakala kweemigca yokukhumbula, kwaye i-copper peptides ikhulisa ukululama kwemilomo kwaye inemiphumo ye-antioxidant. Nangona iingxelo zonyango ze-peptides zingaqinanga njengoko zika-retinoids okanye i-vitamin C, uphando oluphuhlisayo lukhanga. I-Peptides zihlala zamkelwa kakuhle kwaye zingaba yindlela elungileyo kubantu abangakwazi ukusebenzisa i-retinoids. I-Centella asiatica, eyaziwa ngokuba yi-cica, iqulethe iimpawu ezisebenzayo ezibizwa ngokuba yi-madecassoside kunye ne-asiaticoside ezithambisa ukuvuvukala, zixhasa ukululama kwemilomo, kwaye zomeleza umqolo wesikhumba, zenza ukuba ibe luncedo kakhulu kwi-skin ethambileyo okanye emva kokuphumeza.