Ukuphola Kwangaphakathi vs. Ukuphola Kwangaphandle: Ukuhlukanisa Iqiniso Nezindaba
Izihloko ezimbalwa eziphathelene nokunakekelwa kwesikhumba zenza ukudideka okuningi njengokuphola. Iseluleko esilula sokuthi "phuza amanzi amaningi ukuze uthole isikhumba esingcono" sikhona yonke indawo, kodwa isayensi yangempela yokuphola kwesikhumba iyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu futhi interesting. Ukuqonda ukuthi isikhumba sakho sithola kanjani, sishoda, futhi sigcina kanjani umswakama — kanye nomqondo phakathi kokuphola nokunakekelwa — kubalulekile ekwakheni umkhuba owenza isikhumba sakho sihlale sikhona, sikhazimula, futhi sibe nesimo esiqinile.
U relationship phakathi kokuthola amanzi nokubukeka kwesikhumba ingenye yezihloko eziphakeme kakhulu ezingxoxweni zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, futhi iqiniso linzima kakhulu kunalokho okukhuluma ngakho. Akukho okukhuluma ngokuthi ukuphuza amanzi kuzoshintsha isikhumba sakho noma ukwenqaba ukuthi ukuthola amanzi akubalulekile empilweni yesikhumba kubonisa kahle ubufakazi besayensi. Isikhumba sakho sithola umswakama kusuka ngaphakathi, sithunyelwa ngegazi ukuya ku-dermis, lapho sithuthuka phezulu ukuze siphole i-epidermis.
Le mithombo yamanzi yangaphakathi ibalulekile — ukushoda okukhulu kwamanzi kuholela esikhumbeni esibonakalayo esomile, esinokuthinta, futhi esingathokozisi. Nokho, umzimba ubeka phambili ukusabalalisa amanzi ezitho ezibalulekile, futhi isikhumba, nakuba singesinye sezitho ezinkulu, sithola amanzi ekugcineni ohlwini lwezidingo zomzimba. Kumuntu osevele epholile kahle, ukuphuza amanzi amaningi ngaphezu kwezidingo ezijwayelekile akukaze kube khona ubufakazi obuqinile bokuthi kuthuthukisa ukubukeka kwesikhumba ezifundweni ezinzima.
Amathumbu alawula kahle ibhalansi yamanzi, futhi ukuthola okweqile kuphumelelwa kuphela, hhayi ukuthunyelwa esikhumbeni. Uhlolo lwemibhalo olwenziwe ngo-2018 luthole ubufakazi obulinganiselwe bokuthi ukwanda kokuthola amanzi kuhlelwe izakhiwo zesikhumba kubantu abangashodile. Lokhu kuthiwa, ukushoda okuncane kwamanzi kuvame kakhulu kunalokho abantu abaningi abazi, ikakhulukazi kubantu abadala, labo abath consuming caffeine eningi noma utshwala, nabantu abahlala ezindaweni ezishisayo noma ezomile.
Kulaba bantu, ukuqinisekisa ukuphola kahle kungase kube nomthelela omuhle ekuthuthukiseni isikhumba nokukhanya. Ngenkathi ukuphuza amanzi amaningi ngaphezu kwezinga lokuphola elanele kungakaze kufakazelwe ukuthi kuthuthukisa ukubukeka kwesikhumba, ngisho nokushoda okuncane kwamanzi kunganciphisa isikhumba sokukhanya futhi kube nomthelela ekubukekeni okungathokozisi.!! Ukuthola okukhululekile ukuthi ukuphola kahle kuyadingeka kodwa akukwanele ukuze isikhumba sibe nempilo.
Isikhumba sakho sidinga kokubili umswakama wangaphakathi kanye nokuvikelwa kwangaphandle ukuze kugcinwe amazinga apholile. Ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba kwangaphandle kubhekana nengxenye yangaphandle, okuyinto evame ukuba nomthelela omkhulu ekubukekeni nasekuthinteni kwesikhumba sakho.
Indlela Isikhumba Esishoda Ngamanzi: Ukuqonda Ukulahleka Kwamanzi Kwangaphakathi
Ukulahleka kwamanzi kwangaphakathi, okujwayelekile ukufingqwa njenge-TEWL, yinqubo eqhubekayo lapho amanzi ehlangana nezendlalelo ezijulile zesikhumba ngokuhamba kwe-epidermis futhi engena emoyeni ozungezile. Kuyinqubo ejwayelekile yokuphila, kodwa uma i-TEWL idlula izinga lokuthi umswakama uphinde ube khona, isikhumba siba ne-dehydration — kungakhathaliseki ukuthi uphuza malini amanzi. I-stratum corneum, ungqimba oluphakeme lwe-epidermis, lusebenza njengomkhawulo oyinhloko ophikisana nokulahleka kwamanzi okweqile.
Le ngqimba ivame ukuchazwa ngesisekelo se-"amabhulokhi nezinto zokwakha": ama-corneocytes (amaseli esikhumba afile) angamabhulokhi, kanti ama-lipids aphakathi — ikakhulukazi ama-ceramides, i-cholesterol, kanye nama-free fatty acids — angama-mortar. Uma le matrix ye-lipid igcwele, i-TEWL igcinwa ezingeni eliphusile. Uma iphukile, amanzi aphuma ngokushesha.
Izinto eziningi zingaphazamisa le mikhawulo futhi zandise i-TEWL. Ukuhlanzwa okunzima okukhulula ama-lipids emvelo, ukweqisa, ukuchayeka isikhathi eside emanzini ashisayo, umswakama ophansi, ukuvunguza, kanye nezimo zesikhumba ezithile njenge-eczema konke kwehlisa umkhawulo we-lipid. Iminyaka iyinto ebalulekile — isikhumba sithola ama-lipids ambalwa okukhawulela njengoba sikhula, okwenza i-stratum corneum ibe nokusebenza okuncane ekugcineni umswakama.
I-TEWL iyakwazi ukukalwa kusetshenziswa amathuluzi akhethekile, futhi odokotela bezesikhumba basebenzisa lezi zilinganiso ukuze bahlola umsebenzi wombhoshongo ngempela. Amavalue aphezulu e-TEWL akhombisa ukwehluleka okukhulu komkhawulo. Ngokujabulisayo, i-TEWL iyahluka kakhulu ezindaweni ezahlukene zomzimba — ubuso, izandla, nezinyawo zine-TEWL ephezulu kunaleyo ye-trunk noma izitho, okuchaza ingxenye yokuthi kungani isikhumba sobuso siba sengozini yokushoda.
Ukuqonda i-TEWL kubuyisela umgomo wokuphola kwesikhumba. Esikhundleni sokungeza amanzi esikhumbeni, isu elisebenzayo kakhulu ukunciphisa izinga lokuthi amanzi aphume ngesikhathi uqinisekisa ukuthola amanzi okuhle kokubili ngaphakathi nangaphandle. Lapha, ukuhlukaniswa phakathi kwe-humectants kanye ne-occlusives kuba kubalulekile.
Ama-Humectants vs. Ama-Occlusives: Indlela Ama-Moisturizers Asebenza Ngempela
Ama-moisturizers awenziwa ngokufanayo, futhi ukuqonda izigaba ezintathu ezisebenzayo zezakhi zokunakekelwa (buka umhlahlandlela wethu ama-moisturizers achazwe ukuze uthole okuningi) — ama-humectants, ama-emollients, kanye nama-occlusives — kukusiza ukukhetha imikhiqizo ehambisana nezidingo zakho zokuphola kahle. Ama-humectants yizinto ezithola futhi zibophe amamolekyuli amanzi. Zithatha umswakama emithonjeni emibili: emoyeni uma umswakama uphansi, kanye nezendlalelo ezijulile zesikhumba.
Ama-humectants ajwayelekile afaka i-hyaluronic acid, i-glycerin, i-urea, i-propylene glycol, kanye nama-alpha hydroxy acids. I-Hyaluronic acid ikakhulukazi ithandwa ngoba i-molecule eyodwa ingabamba kuze kube yizikhathi eziyinkulungwane zesisindo sayo emanzini, idala umphumela obonakalayo wokukhazimula esikhumbeni. I-Glycerin, eyodwa yezinto eziphakanyisiwe kakhulu ezizokwenziwa ezesikhumba, ihlale ikhuluma ngaphezu kwe-hyaluronic acid ezifundweni ezithinta ukuthuthukiswa kokuphola kwesikhumba, kodwa ithola ingxenye encane yokunakwa kwezokumaketha.!!
Nokho, ama-humectants kuphela awanele ezindaweni ezomile. Uma umoya ozungezile unomswakama ophansi, ama-humectants angase athathe amanzi phezulu ukusuka ku-dermis kunokuba avela emoyeni, okungase kube kubi uma engavikelwa ngengxenye ye-occlusive. Ama-occlusives akha umkhawulo wesikhumba ophikisana nokulahleka kwamanzi ngokuvimbela amanzi ukuthi angapheli.
I-Petrolatum iyona efanelekile kakhulu, inciphisa i-TEWL ngaphezu kwama-99 percent. Ezinye ama-occlusives zifaka i-dimethicone, i-lanolin, i-mineral oil, i-beeswax, kanye ne-plant butters njenge-shea kanye ne-cocoa butter. Ama-occlusives awengezi umswakama — avimbela kuphela ukulahleka kwawo, okwenza kube nomthelela omkhulu uma efakwa esikhumbeni esivele siphole.
Ama-emollients agcwalisa izikhala phakathi kwamasele esikhumba, ethambisa ubuso futhi ithuthukisa isimo sonke sesikhumba. Ama-ceramides, i-squalane, ama-fatty alcohols, kanye nezinhlobonhlobo zamafutha ezitshalo zisebenza njenge-emollients. Ziphinde zibe nomthelela ekulungiseni umkhawulo ngokuphinda noma ngokwengeza ama-lipids emvelo aphakathi kwe-stratum corneum.
Ama-moisturizers aphumelela kakhulu ahlanganisa zonke izigaba ezintathu. I-humectant ithatha amanzi, i-emollient ithambisa futhi ilungisa, kanti i-occlusive ivala konke endaweni. Ukuqonda le mikhawulo kukuvumela ukuthi wenze ngendlela yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ngokusekelwe ezidingweni zakho ezithile zesikhumba kanye nezimo zakho.
Isikhumba Esishodile Ngamanzi vs. Isikhumba Esomile: Ukuhlukaniswa Okubalulekile
Omunye wemigomo ebaluleke kakhulu ekuphola kwesikhumba yisikhumbuzo phakathi kwesikhumba esishodile ngamanzi nesikhumba esomile. Nakuba lezi zisho zisetshenziswa kaningi ngokufanayo ezingxoxweni zansuku zonke, zichaza izimo ezihlukile ngokuphelele ezinezinhloso ezihlukile nezixazululo ezihlukile. Isikhumba esomile siyi-type yesikhumba ebonakaliswa ngokukhiqizwa okunganele kwe-oli (sebum).
Kakhulu kwenziwa ngempela futhi kuvame ukuba yisici esiqhubekayo empilweni. Isikhumba esomile sishoda ama-lipids adingekayo ukuze sakhe umkhawulo oqinile, kuholele ekulahlekelweni okuphindaphindiwe kwamanzi, ukwehla, kanye nesimo esiqinile. Kuvame kakhulu emzimbeni — ikakhulukazi ezinyaweni eziphansi, ezandleni, nasezandleni — futhi kuvame ukuba kubi ngokuhamba kwesikhathi njengoba umsebenzi wezitho ze-sebaceous uncipha.
Isikhumba esishodile ngamanzi, ngakolunye uhlangothi, yisimo esikhathazayo esichazwa ngokunganele kokutholakala kwamanzi ku-stratum corneum. Ngokubalulekile, noma iyiphi i-type yesikhumba ingashoda ngamanzi — kuhlanganise nesikhumba esinamanzi. Isikhumba esishodile ngamanzi sivame ukuveza umuzwa ophakeme, ubukeka obungathokozisi, imigqa emincane ebonakalayo, futhi ngokuphikisana, kwesinye isikhathi sikhula kakhulu njengoba isikhumba sikhulisa sebum ukuze silungiselele ukushoda kwamanzi.
Ukuhlukaniswa kubalulekile ngoba izixazululo zihluke. Isikhumba esomile sithola kakhulu ezimakethe ezine-lipid — ama-creams anothile, amafutha obuso, kanye nezixazululo zokulungisa umkhawulo ezine-ceramides nama-fatty acids. Isikhumba esishodile ngamanzi sidinga ama-humectants akhanga amanzi, imikhiqizo ethambile yokusekela umkhawulo, futhi ngokuvamile ukuhlola kabusha izinto ezizokwenza ukulahleka kwamanzi okweqile.
Isikhumba esinamanzi singashoda ngamanzi ngesikhathi esifanayo, isimo esivame ukungaqondwa kahle njengokuthi kuphela sinamanzi, kuholela abantu ukuba bahlakaze isikhumba sabo ngempela ngemikhiqizo enzima lapho badinga izithako zokuphola nokulungisa umkhawulo.!! Abantu abaningi abane-combination skin bahlala bephila nesikhumba esinamanzi esishodile — banezinga elanele noma elingaphezulu lokukhiqizwa kwe-oli kodwa bahluleka ukugcina amanzi. Ukufaka imikhiqizo yokumisa kanye nezihlanzisi ezinzima kwenza inkinga ibe mbi ngokuphinda iphule umkhawulo futhi ikhulise i-TEWL.
Ukuhlola okulula ekhaya kungasiza ukuhlukanisa lezi ezimbili. Uma isikhumba sakho sizizwa sikhululekile ngemuva kokuhlanzwa kodwa siba namafutha phakathi nesikhathi esisodwa noma ezimbili, ukushoda kwamanzi kungenzeka kube inkinga eyinhloko. Uma isikhumba sakho sihlala sikhululekile, sikhukhuleka, futhi singakhiqizi amafutha akhanyayo, kungenzeka ukuthi unayo i-type yesikhumba esomile. Ngokuqinisekile, abanye abantu banesikhumba esomile esishodile, sidinga kokubili ukugcwaliswa kwe-lipid kanye namanzi.
Ukwakha Umkhuba Wokunakekelwa Kwekhwalithi Yokuphola
Ngesiqiniseko sokuthi uqonda ukuthi ukuphola kwesikhumba kusebenze kanjani, ungakha umkhuba okhethekile owakhiwe ukuze uthuthukise amazinga omswakama wesikhumba sakho. Le ndlela igxile ezintweni ezintathu: thumela amanzi esikhumbeni, uqiniseke umkhawulo ogcina amanzi, futhi unciphise imikhuba nemikhiqizo edla amanzi. Qala ngokuhlola i-cleanser yakho.
Ukuhlanzwa okunzima okwakhiwe nge-sulfate kukhipha umkhawulo we-lipid futhi kuyisizathu esivamile sokushoda kwamanzi esikhumbeni ngenxa yomkhuba wokunakekelwa kwesikhumba. 5, okuhambisana ne-acid mantle yemvelo yesikhumba. Ama-cream, ubisi, noma ama-gel cleansers anokuphola kahle ngaphandle kokuphula ama-lipids omkhawulo.
Ngemuva kokuhlanzwa, sebenzisa i-toner ethokomele noma i-essence esikhumbeni esithambile. Lezi zinto ezilula, ezisekelwe emanzini zifaka ungqimba lokuqala lama-humectants alungiselela isikhumba ukuze sithole imikhiqizo elandelayo. Bheka izithako ezifana ne-hyaluronic acid, i-glycerin, i-panthenol, kanye ne-beta-glucan.
Ukuphosa umkhiqizo esikhumbeni kunokuhlanza kusekela ukutholakala okungcono. Okulandelayo, sebenzisa i-serum ethokomele. Le ngxenye igxile ekuthumeleni ama-humectants futhi ingase ifake nezinye izithako ezizuzisayo ezifana ne-niacinamide yokusekela umkhawulo noma i-centella asiatica yokuthambisa.
Uma isikhumba sakho sishodile, lokhu kuvame ukuba yisinyathelo esinethonya elikhulu emkhubeni, njengoba kunikeza umthamo ophakeme wezithako ezibophe amanzi. I-moisturizer yakho kufanele ihlanganise ama-humectants, ama-emollients, kanye nama-occlusives afanele i-type yesikhumba sakho nezimo. Ezimweni ezinomswakama, i-gel-cream elula ingase ikwanele.
Ezimweni ezomile noma ezibandayo, i-cream enothile enezici eziqinile ze-occlusive iyadingeka. Umhlahlandlela wethu umkhuba wokunakekelwa kwezimvula uhlanganisa izindlela ezinzima zokubhekana nezimo ezibandayo. Faka esikhumbeni esithambile noma esithintekile ukuze uvale wonke umswakama ovela ezindaweni zakho ezandulele.
Kubantu abane-skin esomile kakhulu noma esishodile, cabanga ngendlela ye-"moisture sandwich": sebenzisa i-humectant serum, bese ulandela ne-moisturizer, bese ufafaza nge-toner ethokomele, bese uvula ngengxenye yokugcina ye-facial oil noma i-occlusive balm. Le ndlela yokwenza izinyathelo eziningi ikhulisa kokubili ukuthumela amanzi nokugcina, ibhekana nezibalo zokuphola kusuka kuzo zonke izindlela. Kubalulekile futhi ukuthi yini okufanele uyigweme.
Nciphisa ukuvuleka emanzini ashisayo kakhulu, unciphise ukujwayela kokuhlanzwa okukhulu uma umkhawulo wakho uphukile, gwema ama-toners anothile ngotshwala, futhi usebenzise i-humidifier ezindaweni ezomile ngaphakathi. Ngezinye izikhathi, isu elisebenzayo lokuphola kahle ukunciphisa imikhuba edala ukulahleka okweqile kwamanzi.
